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I'm planning to use a #4-1/2 smoothing plane to do this and was hoping to get some advice on a proven method that has worked. I purchased an Anant plane for about $50 and lapped the sole and sides to dead flat and a mirror shine. I then replaced the blade and chip breaker with Hock substitutes...so it now slices like a dream.

Aside from the method in C&N, I haven't heard of anyone posting a method. I don't have C&N handy since I'm away from home for the next 2 weeks but I seem to remember him recommending a toothed blade. How necessary is this blade and what are it's advantages?

Also, are there any special methods for holding down a top or back plate while planing?ny recommendations would be appreciated...TIA

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

On one through four I used C&N's method minus the toothed blade. I just clamp it down with a cork lined caul on one corner (the top is not cut out at the time). I plane at an angle across the two halves. Seems to cut down on tear out for me. Then I turn the board around and clamp the opposite corner and plane across at the opposite angle.

I think Cumpiano says the toothed blade is just to help you keep track of where you're at in the process.

Hi JJ! I don?t think that a toothed blade is necsesary, I use only my #7 jointer to plane my Tops.It takes about 1 hr to get to the correct thickness, but check regulary with a thickness caliper to get an even result. For Backs and sides I use my thickness sander, only for ease.

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http://www.hl-guitars.at

JJ,

I used a hand plane for many guitars. I demonstrate the method I use for thicknessing a top in my DVD BUild a Steel String Guitar with Robert O'Brien. You might find it useful to see how I do it.

One way to hold your work is with a low, wide bench stop.

I use pull planes, so I clamp a 20" board in my end vise with 1/16" protruding. I can stand at the end and easily reach the whole plate. A clamp on one corner prevents twisting, but might not be necessary.

You can also take a flat piece of plywood and attach a low stop to it. This allows you to place the plate comfortably on your bench, and gives you a flat reference. Eric Jensen demonstrated this at our last NEL meeting.

I really like my drum sander, but have thicknessed many plates entirely by hand, and still do some cleanup and tuning by hand when necessary.

Toothing blades really make a difference on difficult wood that will tear-out easily, that's their main purpose in woodworking. I would worry more about having a sharp blade when working a top. I think Ronn is right when he says that the book uses it to let you see your work.

Just thought you might want to know when a toothing blade might be useful.